Tag: linen

Who Says Plain Weave Must Be Plain?

Karen

Do you see the lengthwise raised ridges in this linen fabric? Don’t be fooled. The plain weave panel of this fabric is as flat as can be. Optical illusion. I have two slightly different colors of linen in the warp, unbleached and golden bleached. Instead of strictly alternating the colors, I threaded the warp ends “as they came,” to bring depth and interest to the plain weave fabric.

Dice weave on the loom. View from under the weaving.
View from under the weaving, the cloth is seen going over the knee beam. This dice weave, with 16/2 linen, has colorful squares of weft pattern floats. A panel of plain weave follows the patterned cloth.

We can be fooled by what we see. Lines and colors work together to create a false impression. Coming close enough to touch and examine is the best way to help the eyes see what is real. How many things do we misunderstand because we fail to come near enough to truly examine the evidence? We assume that a distant view is reliable.

Humility sets the stage for learning. It removes distance between us and what we need to learn. Instead of trusting only what we see, we step nearer to touch and examine the real thing. The humble are teachable. They know there are things they don’t know, and they are on a quest to learn. With weaving, and with matters of greater importance, like faith and truth, we must come close enough to touch and to learn.

May you hold valued fabric in your hands.

With much to learn,
Karen

Smiles and Linen Band Weaving

Karen

This is linen singles; so, yes, I did have a few broken warp ends. Despite that, I think linen makes the very best band weaving experience. Linen holds its shape. Linen feels good in the hand. Linen looks good. The finished band looks good. That makes me glad.

Linen band woven on band loom.
Band loom creation of 16/1 linen in unbleached, golden bleached, and pure blue. Unbleached 16/1 linen weft. Photo credit: Steve Isenhower
Linen band from linen singles.
Photo credit: Steve Isenhower

Real joy lasts through broken warp ends and all, and is not deterred by temporary heartaches and setbacks. To tell the truth, I wasn’t happy when warp ends broke. Especially the one that broke two times in a row. If I look for that spot now, I may be able to find it, but I doubt you could. I think joy is the thing that takes a bigger look at what is happening, and is able to see the finished version. If I can step into that insight when I am in the middle of a problem, I am better off.

Band loom woven band. Karen Isenhower
Photo credit: Steve Isenhower
Woven on Glimakra band loom. Linen singles. Karen Isenhower
Photo credit: Steve Isenhower

Live joyously. That is my goal. The Lord makes me glad in His presence. That is the joy that sustains us through big occasions and little mishaps. There is joy where the Lord is. That is where I want to be. I am eager to start another linen band, if only to practice repairing broken warp ends…with a smile.

Linen singles woven band.
Photo credit: Steve Isenhower

(This linen band is my contribution to the “Way Out West Weavers” basket that will be up for bid at Warp Speed Ahead! Contemporary Handweavers of Texas Convention in Austin this summer. If you are the highest bidder on our basket, this band, as well as other very fine items, will be yours.)

May your face be a picture of gladness.

With Joy,
Karen

Linen Is Special

Karen

Linen is special. This is nothing new. Even in biblical history, linen is mentioned as fabric for sacred purposes. But weaving with linen requires attentiveness. The inelasticity of linen means extra care is needed in every stage of dressing the loom and weaving. Of first importance is an even warp tension.

Getting ready to weave with linen. Tying on.
Tying on linen in small 1-inch/2.5 cm increments is one thing that helps contribute to an even warp tension.

This method of tying on* is perfect for weaving rag rugs. The 12/6 cotton rug warp stays snugly in place. Not so with linen. The even warp tension that I have been so careful to maintain can be lost in a moment. The sneaky linen is smooth and slick enough to tie on easily, and then loosen up just as easily. So I take the double precaution of tying an additional overhand knot, AND moistening that knot with a dab of water which helps the linen grip itself. I never have to worry about these knots slipping loose.

Beginning dice weave in linen.
Additional overhand knot, with a dab of water, secures the tie-on threads. I am using sample space to try weft colors and work on getting optimum weft density.

What do you worry about? I have bigger things I worry about, too. But my heavenly Father assures me that He has secured all the knots that concern me. “Don’t worry,” he tells me. “Your Father knows your needs.” Be attentive to keep first things first. Put yourself in the Father’s care, and find that he takes care of you. Special you.

May you forget your worries.

With you,
Karen

* I learned this method of tying on from Becky Ashenden. You can see it fully explained by Becky, with pictures, in Dress Your Loom the Vävstuga Way: A Benchside Photo-guide.

Tools Day: Sley the Reed

Karen

I am dressing the big loom with linen. This flaxen thread brings a worthwhile challenge I find hard to resist. Beaming the warp was slow and deliberate. It pays to be attentive to everything at this stage. Threading for this dice weave could not be simpler; it was finished before I knew it. Now, it is time to sley the reed.

Tools:

  • Reed     I am using a 12-dent reed for this project.
  • Texsolv cord for hanging the reed in front of the shafts
  • Tape measure     I remove the metal ends.
  • Reed hook     Mine is from Vävstuga.
  • Bench, set at comfortable height for threading and sleying     With my Glimåkra Standard, I get to put the bench “in” the loom. It’s like going into my own little playhouse.
  • Good lighting     I use a small Ott Lite Task Lamp when natural light in the room is dim.
Everything is ready for sleying the reed.
Reed is positioned right in front of the threaded heddles. Shafts and reed hang at optimum height for visibility and ease of hand mobility.
Sleying the reed.
Left hand index finger separates the end(s) to be sleyed.
Sleying the reed.
And the right hand holds the reed hook under the reed to pull the end(s) through the dent. (These two pictures show why a third hand would be nice. Normally, I sley the reed with two hands, so a third hand would be useful for taking a picture.)
  1. Form two loops of Texsolv cord that hang down from the top of the loom, one on the right and one on the left, to hold the reed for sleying.     My Texsolv loops hang from the countermarch frame.
  2. Adjust the length of the Texsolv loops so that the reed will fall just below the eyes of the heddles.
  3. Rest the reed horizontally in the Texsolv holders.
  4. Use the tape measure to find the center of the reed.     I mark the center of my reeds permanently by tying a small piece of 12/6 cotton seine twine at the center.
  5. Find your weaving width measurement on the tape measure. Fold that measurement in half and place the folded tape measure at the center point on the reed, to the right, to find the starting dent for sleying the reed. Place one end of the tape measure in that starting-point dent to keep your place.     Some people use the reed hook as a place holder, but when I pick up the reed hook to sley the first dent, I invariably loose my place.
  6. Pull ends through the reed with the reed hook, referring to your draft for the correct number of ends per dent, starting at the dent on the right hand side that has the place holder in it. Good lighting helps to prevent errors.     This is especially true with finer dents and darker threads.
  7. After sleying each group of warp ends, visually examine the sleyed dents to look for missed dents or extra ends in dents.
  8. Tie the sleyed group of ends into a slip knot.
  9. Finish sleying all the ends; and smile, knowing you are a step closer to weaving fabric.

May all your looms be dressed.

Happy Dressing,
Karen

Weaving in the Comfort Zone

Karen

I like the comfortable feeling of weaving familiar things. Especially rag rugs and narrow bands. I also like to push my limits, doing projects that have new things for me to learn. The problem is, sometimes I am afraid of getting in over my head.

Linen singles for a woven band.
Loose warp chain with eight yards (7.3 m) of 16/1 linen for a narrow band.
Threading band loom.
Threading the band loom, with the threading sequence taped to the wall.
Glimakra band loom threaded with 16/1 linen for narrow band.
Linen threads show their personality.

If I’m not careful, I let the fear of failure keep me from trying. Decisions get put on hold. The big loom waits empty. Meanwhile, I stay in my comfortable zone. This new narrow linen band is that comfortable place for me. There is nothing wrong with enjoying this familiarity, letting the band practically weave itself. But at some point, I will have to step out of the boat, so to speak, and attempt the “impossible” things.

Linen band weaving on Glimakra two-treadle band loom.
Is there anything better than linen for band weaving? This is pleasure weaving. Glimåkra two-treadle band loom.

It has been told that Jesus walked on water. As the account goes, when Peter saw Jesus walk on water, he believed that Jesus could enable him to do the impossible, too. It’s not easy to walk on water. Just ask Peter; he faltered after just a few steps. But he tried! When we face insurmountable challenges, after sitting comfortably for a while, we need to try taking a few steps out on the water. Like Peter experienced, the hand of Jesus will be right there when we falter.

May you have courage to step into your next challenge.

Happy weaving,
Karen