Tried and True: How Far Will Your Quill Go?
- By Karen
- September 8, 2020
- 12 Comments
Do not overfill your quills. It may seem efficient to load the quill as much as possible so you can weave as far as possible. Like me, you may have to learn this the hard way. A too-chubby quill that has to be coaxed through the shed takes more time and effort than winding a few extra quills. So much for efficiency.
It helps to have an idea of how far the thread on a quill will go. With this information, you can wind a few in advance without ending up with an excess of wound quills at the end of your project. I like to have the next quill ready to go when I am weaving so that I can put the new quill in my shuttle and keep weaving with very little interruption. This is especially helpful when the treadling sequence is tricky, like with the reverse twill in every other large color block on these cottolin bath towels. 3-2-1-6-5-4
How to Estimate Weaving Distance for Filled Quills
1 Start a new quill, leaving a 4 – 5 cm tail on the surface of the cloth. Or, start a new quill at the beginning of a color change.
2 Weave until the quill has emptied. Leave a 4-5 cm tail on the surface of the cloth.
3 Replace the empty quill in the shuttle with a new quill and continue weaving 1 – 2 cm further.
4 Measure the distance from the first weft tail, or line of color change, to the second weft tail. Place a straight pin, in line with the first weft tail, directly under the second weft tail. Measure from the pin to the second weft tail. This is the approximate weaving distance you can expect to cover with a new quill. Notate the quill’s estimated weaving distance on your project notes for future reference.
5 Trim the weft tails close to the surface.
6 Increase accuracy by repeating the process three times, and then use the average as your quill’s estimated weaving distance.
The large color blocks on this bath towel are 14 cm long. A single full quill will weave 5 1/2 – 6 cm; therefore, I make sure I have 2 full quills, plus at least another half-filled quill before I start a new color block section. It’s nice to be able to leave my foot on the treadle while I change out quills, so I don’t lose my place.
May your efforts prove to be efficient.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
12 Comments
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Tried and True: Outsmart the Rag Rug Weft Tails
- By Karen
- December 10, 2019
- 4 Comments
What do you do with weft tails on a rag rug? Normally, you wrap the weft tail around the outer warp end and tuck it back into the shed. But what about color changes? If you have several color changes in a row, you can end up with extra bulk on one selvedge or another from those tucked-in tails.
3 Ways to Outsmart Rag Rug Weft Tails
- TWO PICKS For a two-pick stripe, leave a tail of several inches on the first pick. For the second pick, lay the weft tail from the first pick in the shed. Lay in the second pick, and cut the fabric strip to overlap the weft tail in the shed. This eliminates any extra bulk at the selvedges. (All tails are cut at a steep angle.)
- CARRY IT When feasible, carry the weft up the side. If a weft is out of play for only one or two rows, do not cut it. When another weft enters the shed, make sure it encircles the idle weft.
- DISTRIBUTE Whenever possible, avoid tucking in weft tails two picks in a row. Wait, and tuck in the tail on a subsequent pick.
HERE IS AN EXAMPLE:
One more thing. Cut the weft tail extra long if you are tucking it in a row with weft floats, as in rosepath (Like the center pick in this medallion). This helps keep that weft tail from popping out of place. You don’t want those tails to start waving at you.
May you pay attention to the details.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
4 Comments
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I’ve thought of doing a post like this as a visual for my students. Now I don’t have to! I will just refer them to your beautiful rug!
One thing you didn’t mention was the single black pick. How I do a single pick is to cut the strip half the width of my other strips. I cut the length a bit longer than twice the width, allowing for the angle and the overlap and tapered ends. I insert it with a stick shuttle leaving both ends hanging out and beat. Both ends then wrap around the end warp or the weft being carried up the side and have the tapered ends overlap somewhere in the center.
Excellent tutorial!
Jenny Bellairs
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Hi Jenny, Basics like this are always good to review. Thanks for your encouragement!
Your method for weaving a single pick is excellent, and eliminates another tail at the selvedge.
I don’t usually take that extra step, though, of cutting a strip half width. So my single picks do have a long tail tucked in.Thank you!
Karen
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Brilliant! Thank you.
I’m working on a strip quilt project with an abundance of leftovers. 4″ will be cut down to 1″ widths and woven into the extra rose path warp on the loom.
A very timely posting.
Nannette
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Hi Nannette, What a great idea to take your quilting leftovers and give them purpose in rosepath weaving. It will be beautiful.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Tried and True: Five Steps for Rag Rug Selvedges and a Quick Tip Video
- By Karen
- November 12, 2019
- 26 Comments
What do you look for in a handwoven rag rug? How do you detect quality of craftsmanship? I look at the selvedges. First thing. I look for selvedges that are nice and tight, and that have a uniform twist at the edge. A few simple steps, consistently practiced, produce the kind of quality you can see and feel. It’s one more reason I find delight in weaving rag rugs.
Five Steps for Firm Selvedges on a Rag Rug
- Throw the shuttle, leaving a loop of the fabric-strip weft at the selvedge.
- Hold the weft out taut, and turn the weft under twice at the selvedge.
- Untwist the weft in the shed, straightening it, as needed.
- Pull the weft tight against the selvedge.
- Position the weft in the shed and beat it in.
Watch this Quick Tip video for a short demonstration.
May the quality of your work be the first thing noticed.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
26 Comments
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Beth says:
Your rugs are beautiful!
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Hi Beth, Thank you! Rag rugs are so satisfying for me. I’m glad you like them.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Dorothy Gareau says:
Thank You for showing this tip. What pattern did you use for your warp. Always learning.
Dorothy
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Hi Dorothy, This warp is threaded in rosepath. It is 12/6 cotton in two colors, threaded in random order. The part of the rug you see in this post is woven as plain weave.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Rachel Lohman says:
Thank you for that valuable tip and demonstration. Can’t wait to go and tidy my edges. The wise never stop learning!
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Hi Rachel, There is always more to learn and practice. That’s what keeps us from ever getting bored.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Karen,
Thank you for the lesson. I loved the fumble of the shuttle technique. Something from my world. 🙂Nannette
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Hi Nannette, I don’t know how something that goes so smoothly when no one is watching suddenly becomes so awkward when a camera is turned on. Keeps me humble.
All the best,
Karen
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Elisabeth says:
Great tutorial, and beautiful work! Maybe my selvages can improve now 🙂 Thank you so much for sharing so generously!
Have a wonderful winter day weaving!
Elisabeth-
Hi Elisabeth, It certainly is a winter day here today, perfect for hunkering down at the loom. Your beautiful rag rug weaving is already stellar. Any improvement is icing on the cake!
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Joanna says:
Great tip and video, thanks Karen. I’ve already mastered the ‘shuttle-fumble’, but need some practice on the double twist!
Best wishes,
Joanna-
Hi Joanna, It’s good to know I’m not the only shuttle fumbler! Have fun practicing the twist.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Annie says:
Hi, Karen!
These posts on weaving rag rugs are so timely for me. I am threading a loom right now to begin a small sampler for Rosepath rag rugs as I have never done one before. I kept my notes from the class you gave at our WOW meeting last year but the video really clarified the technique.
Thank you to both you and your husband.-
Hi Annie, Have fun with your sampler! Maybe you can make some little mug rugs with your samples. I’m glad the video added some clarity for you!
Happy weaving,
Karen
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lou says:
Thank you!
How do you handle it when there is still fabric on the shuttle? Turn the shuttle over to straighten?-
Hi Lou, Great question! I don’t normally turn the shuttle over to get rid of the twist in the weft. I just let it twist on the shuttle. Before long, the end of the weft is near and I straighten it out then.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Cindy Bills says:
Thank you for the great tip! I will be trying it ASAP. 🙂
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D'Anne says:
Hi, Karen,
What a beautiful rug you’re working on! I wonder if your weft twist might also work on rep weave wefts. Hope you’re enjoying the Hill country.
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Hi D’Anne, Thank you! I like how this rug is turning out.
Good point. Yes, rep weave wefts also need that extra twist at the edge. If it is a fabric strip weft, I turn it under twice, as in the rag rug. If it is a stringyarn weft, I turn it under once.
We are enjoying the Hill country immensely!
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Hi Karen, Thanks for the video. I’ve got my loom warped up for a rag rug at the moment and can’t wait to try your technique. Love your humour in the video.
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Hi Treefrog, That’s great that you are all set to weave a rag rug. I hope you enjoy weaving rag rugs like I do. It’s good to laugh! Thanks!
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Linda Sherman says:
Thank you
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Tobie R Lurie says:
That’s very helpful!
Thank you so much.-
Hi Tobie, I am so glad to know it was helpful for you. Thanks so much for letting me know!
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Tried and True: Leftover Linen on the Band Loom
- By Karen
- October 8, 2019
- 6 Comments
Remember that time you miscalculated when planning your warp? You found the mistake when you were threading, and you ended up with an extra group of ends. If you have ever done something like that, then you understand where this leftover linen warp came from.
This little linen leftover warp is now on the Glimåkra band loom. I removed two ends to get a warp with symmetrical colors. It’s perfect for making hanging tabs to go on the leftover linen waffle weave washcloths. The weft on these band loom shuttles is from one of the little linen warp chains I mentioned last week. (See Put the Linen Back to Use.)
When the thread comes to an end on the shuttle, I follow this simple process to begin a new weft.
- Place the ending weft through the shed, leaving a tail of at least 1/2”.
- Without changing sheds, lightly tap the weft in place with the band knife.
- Bring the new weft on a shuttle through the same shed, going in the same direction as the previous weft’s shuttle, leaving a tail of at least 1/2”. (There is now a weft tail extending in both directions.)
- Without changing sheds, lightly tap the new weft into place with the band knife. (This helps to make a snug fit for the two wefts in this shed.)
- Change sheds. Beat firmly with the band knife.
- Send the weft back through.
- Beat firmly, and continue weaving.
- After weaving 1/2” further, clip off the weft tails; or, clip all the tails after the entire band is woven and has been cut from the band loom.
May you put your leftovers to good use.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
6 Comments
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Your ribbon bands add such a nice touch. Asking because I have no knowledge, how does a Band loom differ from an Inkle loom in what can be made with them?
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Hi Beth, There’s no difference between the band loom and an inkle loom in what can be made on them, except maybe the width. I can weave up to about 4” wide on the band loom, though I normally use it for narrow bands. I also can put on a much longer warp on the band loom than on the inkle loom. This warp on the band loom right now is probably about 5 or 6 meters long.
The band loom is not as portable as an inkle loom, but the main advantage for me is how much faster I can weave bands on it. I can weave a band about four times faster on the band loom than on my inkle loom. The reason for this is that it has two treadles to open the sheds, making both hands free to do the continuous weaving.
I guess the other reason I use the band loom whenever I can is it’s just plain fun!
Thanks for asking!
Karen
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Karen Simpson says:
Morning Karen…..I, too, have a question. Please. Do you sit and weave on the side of the loom, beating sideways….or at the end as with a regular tinkle…
Thanks so much..I always enjoy your blog..-
Hi Karen, I sit and weave on the side of the loom, with the shuttle in my left hand, and the band knife in my right hand, and my feet on the treadles in front of me on the floor. There is a short video at the end of this post that demos how I weave on the band loom: Quiet Friday: Band Loom Warping and Weaving.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
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The extra beating of the filler overlap blends the change so it is indistinguishable from the rest of the band. Who’d a thunk?
Thank you for the lesson.
Nannette-
Hi Nannette, It is surprising what a big difference this little action makes. You really cannot see where the weft changes after I clip off the weft tails.
All the best,
Karen
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Tried and True: Rag Rug with Surprising Rosepath Inlay
- By Karen
- September 10, 2019
- 14 Comments
The first rag rug on this 12/6 cotton warp is well underway. This rug is mostly plain weave, with one simple rosepath repeat every ten centimeters. I am weaving the rosepath motif without tabby between pattern picks. The treadling is 1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 4, 3, 2, 1. The dark brown motif contrasts with the surrounding light-colored plain weave. It almost looks as if a thick chain has been laid across the rug. I transform the otherwise dark rosepath “chains” with a simple bright inlay strip.
Rosepath with Inlay
- Weave the first four picks of the rosepath pattern, treadling 1, 2, 3, 4 (or, if using a different treadling sequence, weave up to the center pick).
- Lay in the center pick (treadle 1, in this example). Wait to beat it in.
- Measure and cut the inlay strip to size, tapering the ends.
- Put the inlay strip in the shed, laying it directly on top of the fabric strip already there.
- Beat in the weft as usual.
- Continue weaving to complete the rosepath pattern, treadling 4, 3, 2, 1 (or, as needed, for a different sequence).
You can accomplish a similar effect by weaving in a separate fabric strip for the center pick. In that case, cut tapered ends that are long enough to twist and tuck back into the shed. And carry the weft strip from the previous pick up the side.
The inlay method eliminates the extra bulk at the selvedges, and adds a slight thickness to the center pick, helping to give it a raised look. I am leaving the inlay weft tails loose, but you could cut them a little longer and tuck the ends in, if you prefer.
May you experience the simple pleasure of doing something unexpected.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
14 Comments
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Annie says:
Beautiful! You explain it so well that I’m adding it to my to do list. Thank you
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Marjorie Clay says:
How wide is your Ideal? It looks bigger than mine!
I admire your weaving so much! I started too late to achieve such mastery, but I love weaving. Warping, not so much! It is still too much of an adventure!
Marjorie
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Hi Marjorie, My Ideal is 100cm (39”). The warp on the loom is almost full weaving width.
Thank you for the compliment! I’m not that much ahead of you. I was also a very late beginner. So it’s certainly not too late for you to gain mastery in the areas you pursue. Maybe someday I can help you to love warping, too, as part of the whole beautiful process.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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How pretty! I love the variety of colors in the background stripes, too! When you do it this way, is the bright rose path center fabric visible on the back?
Elisabeth
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Hi Elisabeth, I’m using up fabric strips from previous rag rug projects, so I have a mixed assortment that I’m using here. I like the way some of the prints turn out when woven. That center inlay strip really appears only on the top side, except for little bits of color here and there. The reverse side shows the all-brown rosepath motifs, but a little lighter in color because the darkest side of the fabric is facing the top.
Karen
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Vida Clyne says:
You are amazing. such beautiful colours. I made a couple of rag rugs a few years ago but did it the cheap way using old denim jeans that took forever to prepare. I am currently finishing a throw in alpaca and considering what to weave next. so many weaves to explore. I love warping by the way, it is always a challenge to try to get the perfect warp. Thank you for for your inspirational blog.
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Hi Vida, I’m very happy that you like these colors! I’m sure your denim rag rugs are terrific. I’d like to make some denim rag rugs some day. Isn’t weaving an exciting field? There’s no end to what we can explore with our looms!! I agree with you about warping. It’s great to have a continual challenge.
I appreciate your kind words so much!
All the best,
Karen
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The loom is waiting a little while longer. There is work to he done on the outside of our primary home and more preparation on the inside of our retirement home.
I look forward to one home and all my crafts under one roof. And finding a way to keep the wild creatures on the out of the basement.
Today a coyote walked though the yard. Something to get used to.
Your weaving provides order in my wild world. It is beautiful and functional.
Blessings
Nannette-
Hi Nannette, Transitions are challenging. You have a lot to look forward to. We haven’t seen any coyotes on our property, but plenty of other wildlife – armadillos, roadrunners, gray foxes, blackbuck antelope, and so on.
Making beautiful things that are functional is a huge weaving goal of mine. Thank you for your thoughtful encouragement.
All the best,
Karen
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Very pretty rug Karen!
Another technique you can use when weaving a single pick of a color is to cut that strip twice the width of the rug plus overlap but only half the width of the other strips. Lay it in the shed with both ends hanging out. Wrap them around the edge thread and arch them back in the same shed, overlapping the tapered ends. I think it is less fussy than trying to tuck the ends in at the edges.
JennyPS:
My loom is working fine, although I did have to stop after weaving a bit and fix one shed that went wonky. I have seven of the twelve table napkins woven for our guild exchange. I’m hoping each warp will become easier to set up the treadling.-
Hi Jenny, Thank you for that very useful tip! I will try that.
I’m sure your sheds will get better and better with each successive warp.
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Joan H Harvey says:
I notice you are using a metal temple on this rug. Do you recommend metal rather than wooden temples for rag rugs?
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Hi Joan, I’m glad you asked! I prefer a wooden temple, even for rag rugs, but I don’t have a wooden one the right size for this rug, so I’m using the metal one instead. I like the wooden temple because it is lighter weight, and I can set it closer to the fell line without damaging the beater. The metal temple can gouge the beater if I set it too close to the fell. I’ve done that. Ouch! I guess it’s time for me to order another Glimakra temple. 🙂
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Copyright © 2020
Oooo! I love these colors!
Hi Beth, I am really pleased with these colors, too, and how they interact with each other.
Thanks!
Karen
Good morning Karen,
I just noticed you work in metric measurements. I hadn’t before. Hmmm. Is that the side effect of transposing 2.54 cm per inch so many years? Metric does make the math easier.
Moving/estate sale in 5 weeks. The epiphany is textile projects will have to wait until the basement in Wausaukee is set up. The last visit I made up north the home made floor loom was to the point of hooking up the castle. I stopped after I put it on backwards.
Thank you for your reality touchpoints.
Nannette
Hi Nannette, I started using metric measurements for weaving after going to Vavstuga Basics. It makes sense to me.
Blessings on all your transition events.
All the best,
Karen
You always give us such great tips! Thanks, Karen. And thanks for using metric measurements, I wish everyone did.
Hi Joanna, I’m happy if a tip is helpful to you. As I mentioned to Nannette, metric measurements make sense to me for weaving. I am not a math whiz, so I like the simplicity of metric math.
Happy weaving,
Karen
I really like your colors as well. Did you set the cottolin at 24 epi? If so is it thick enough this way?
Linda
Hi Linda, These really are comfort colors for me. I’m using a metric 50/10 reed, so my sett is 10 ends per cm, equivalent to 25.4 epi. So, 24 epi would also be a good sett for this twill. I wouldn’t call these towels thick, but they will be soft and absorbent. My experience with Bockens 22/2 Cottolin is that the cotton/linen blend makes great towels. They seem to get softer and more absorbent the more they are used and washed and dried.
I haven’t made cottolin bath towels before, so hopefully I can give you a good report when we start using them!
All the best,
Karen
Hi Karen,
May I ask, what are you using for a bobbin? It doesn’t seem to be the rolled piece of paper that is usually used for a quill. Where did you get them, is it from purchased yarn? I’ve found that some of the empty yarn spools don’t fit in my Glimakra quill shuttle.
Your weaving is always so inspiring, you have a wonderful colour sense and technique.
Maureen
Hi Maureen, The quills that I use are narrow cardboard tubes made for this purpose. These cardboard quills function like the rolled piece of paper that you describe, and come in different sizes to fit the Glimakra quill shuttles. I purchase the cardboard quills from weaving suppliers in the USA, like GlimakraUSA.com or Vavstuga.com. If I need extra quills, I make them from rolled paper, too.
Your kind and encouraging words mean a lot to me.
Happy weaving,
Karen
That’s a wonderful tip, Karen! I’m definitely going to try that with my next project. And I’ve always trimmed my tails after washing. Do you trim to the fabric while on the loom no matter the size or type of yarn?
Kristin,
Good, I’m glad you found this tip helpful!
I trim weft tails as I go–regardless of size or type of yarn. I like to trim as much as possible while it’s on the loom because I don’t want to have to go back and do it later. 🙂
I try to make sure to have my weft threads overlap enough in the shed to take into account shrinkage that will happen with washing and drying. If you trim before it’s washed, the added benefit is whatever bit of thread that is left on the surface will nicely disappear as it shrinks into the cloth.
Happy weaving!
Karen